Also See: Florida Yard
The Florida Friendly Yard Program (ref. http://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/) started out as an effort to in the early 1990’s to revitalize the Sarasota Bay and Tampa Bay estuaries. During the last century, watersheds were dramatically altered. Ancient native upland systems were cleared and drained for new Floridians. The original plant communities were replaced in many cases with lawns and other high maintenance landscape features. The fertilizers and pesticides, used to maintain lush upland lawns, were being washed off by rain and ending up in local bays. As a result complex upland, bay and estuary ecosystems declined. A voluntary educational effort, under the auspices of the National Estuary Program, educated homeowners to begin to reincorporate native plants and use less fertilizer and pesticides on their yards.
The overall mission of the Florida Friendly Yard program is to prevent pollution of surface and ground waters, and to promote water conservation and species diversity within the Florida landscape. Towards this end, the program promotes nine principles of landscape design and management: Right Plant, Right Place; Efficient Watering; Appropriate Fertilization; Mulching; Attraction of Wildlife; Responsible Management of Yard Pests; Recycling Yard Waste; Reduction of Storm-water Runoff, and Waterfront Protection.
The Florida Friendly Yard Program is funded by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection (FDEP) and administered by the University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF IFAS) more popularly known as Cooperative Extension. A homeowner can call Cooperative Extension for guidance and to get their yard inspected and certified as a “Florida Friendly Yard.” The advantages of a Florida Friendly Yard to the homeowner include lower water and energy bills, less maintenance, avoidance of exposure to toxic chemicals, and not least, a more beautiful yard.
There are two keys to limiting high volume irrigation areas. Use low-water water plants and group plants with similar irrigation requirements.
For example, a Connecticut yard might have three irrigation zones: Tough native scrub oaks with an understory of mountain laurel shrubs will be comfortable in a low- or no-irrigation zone. By contrast, moss, ferns and vegetables thrive with lots of moisture. Traditional mulched English-style perennial flower beds will be happy with moderate irrigation.
Similar, moisture groupings can be designed for different climate zones: Gulf-Coast, southeast, desert, semi-desert, prairie, mountain etc. A naturalistic-style landscape, with native and low water plants, needs little water. Ground covers and shrubs are practical alternatives to lawns which need lots of water. Mulch in non-lawn areas keeps down weeds, conserves water, and is attractive in appearance.
Drip irrigation consists of tubes which deliver water through emitters, small sprinklers or drip rings. Circular, multi-holed drip rings, are used for larger plants like trees. Drip tubing is placed in close proximity to plant roots, at or below the soil surface.
Drip irrigation was developed for efficient irrigation in water-scarce deserts. It can deliver just enough water at the right time for optimum plant growth.
Drip irrigation is most effective with a sophisticated control system which includes a timer and a soil moisture sensor. Such a system only waters the soil when it is dry, not for example during or just after a rain storm. Some advanced systems can interrupt a watering cycle, when they receive an electronic weather forecast predicting rain!
Drip irrigation uses water efficiently by minimizing evaporation, runoff, and over-watering. A drip irrigation system could reduce outdoor water usage by 25 to 50% while keeping plants in prime condition. In a yard using 100,000 gallons per year, 25.000 to 50,000 gallons could be saved annually.
Mulch is a loose material such wood chips, bark, pine needles, or leaves applied to the top of the soil. Nature has been laying down mulch for millions of years in the form of branches and leaves dropping onto the forest floor.
Like its cousin compost mulch multi-tasks. It prevents weed growth and keeps the soil moist. It breaks the force of the rain and prevents soil erosion. When it decomposes, it becomes humus which enriches the soil.
Applying mulch to home landscapes improves the appearance of planting beds, and reduces the need for weeding and watering. It also reduces the amount of rainfall runoff. By preventing soil erosion, it also improves the quality of rainfall runoff.
The ultimate way to conserve landscape water is to use plants which need little or no irrigation to thrive. These include native plants like live oak trees in sub-tropic areas which are pre-adapted to local climate. Another choice is to use non-native plants adapted to desert or semi-desert conditions. These include prickly pear cactus and natal plum.
The Earth Easy website (http://www.eartheasy.com/grow_xeriscape.htm) has a user friendly introduction to designing low-water using landscapes. Recommended design principles include minimizing lawn area, mulching planting beds, use of drip irrigation and soaker hoses, and grouping plants of similar watering requirements together.
Native and low water plants can survive inevitable drought periods with little watering Installing drought adapted plants can save 50 to 75% of outdoor watering requirements. In a landscape using 100,000 gallons per year 50,000 to 75,000 gallons can be saved.
Like DwellGreen on Facebook
